50
I rarely go castle hunting during October. It is more enjoyable to feel the autumn breeze with nature, so I choose to be on the countryside this time of the year than ride long hours and chase trains. Another smart reason is there is no Seishun 18 Kippu during Aki. This ticket gives access to almost all of Japan's railways, a vital factor why I was able to travel extensively, to as far as Kagoshima. But since, I chose this season to reach my 50th Japanese castles mark, last week, I launched on a four-day trip to Sendai.
I began blogging about these castle visits around March 2007 at my Friendster account, which eventually became a mere photo album and then I relocated them to my Flickr account to map them out. Blogging about these castles requires a great amount of time because it requires accurate details of names and dates. Read books. Review the brochures and flyers. Research on the internet. This time, I'm sort of changing the writing format like a travelogue. Although this style is not new, I think I would be enjoying blogging this way than the one in my Friendster account. If I were to continue with the previous format, I would be writing a book instead. Where is the fun in that!
But before the journey, I stopped by Tokyo for a photoshoot at Odaiba with photo buddies and also bloggers Totomai (Distilling Thoughts), Torney (Islander in the City) and Winston (Scion of our Times), who joined us later that evening.
The sun was already way up when I arrived at my first stop - Shirakawa jo, better known as Komine jo, the "Small Peak Castle" of Fukushima Ken. Probably its strategic location as a gateway to the north made it to be one of the three most important castles of the Tohoku region. Its terrain also has the characteristics of an entrapping battleground as it is located in between two mountain ranges. Built by Chikamoto Yuuki in 1340, but during the Sengoku period the castle was ruled by Niwa Nagashige who was married to an adopted daughter of Oda Nobunaga. He took part in the Battle of Sekigahara against Maeda Toshinaga and during the siege of Osaka under Tokugawa Ieyasu's side. The impressive walls and moats of this castle were part of Niwa Nagashige's effort to expand Shirakawa jo, adding to its formidable presence in the area. Then eventually it was the Matsudaira clan who ruled the land during the Edo Period. And during the Boshin War in 1868, Shirakawa jo was destroyed by fire. The present day 3 storied main castle keep reconstruction which was built in 1991, accessible by a 10 minute walk from the JR Shirakawa station.
After shooting for 3 hours, I headed to my second stop - Nihonmatsu jo, also known as Kasumiga jo. Much to my surprise, it was the Chrysanthemum Festival and the place was flocked by countless visitors. I knew for sure that the place was lavished with dolls dressed in chrsysanthemum, for even at the Minowa Gate, people were taking turns to have their pictures taken along those dolls. I didn't have the chance to go up the Honmaru to record the main castle keep. Nevertheless, I was able to take decent shots of what was vital for my visit - The Statue of Nihonmatsu Shonentai. It is said that during the Boshin War, 62 young samurais aged between 12 and 17 fought the Imperial forces. They are forever remembered in a battle scene at Odanguchi and a mother sewing his son's battle clothes. I would love to explore Nihonmatsu jo further some time in the future. For sure, it will be another enjoyable 30 minute walk from the JR Nihonmatsu station.
Day 2 has ended. Mission accomplished. And as I was crossing the borders of Fukushima Ken and Miyagi Ken, I was beheld by a heavenly display as a promise of a brighter day tomorrow.
The weird sound of mobile phone alarm broke a wonderful dream, reminding me that it was time for me to stretch and run. Visiting Matsushima was never included in my original travel plan. But since, it is regarded as one of the sites for the best views in Japan, it would only be densely ludicrous for a camera-toting mortal to pass up an opportunity like this. So, wanting to catch the beautiful sunrise, I ran to the nearest train station for the first train to Matsushima. Every second counts in a situation like thisfor the sun waits for no one as it goes up on the horizon. And when the train stopped, we were scampering like meerkats to go and worship the sun! Thank goodness, I was not alone in this predicament. While others were setting up their tripods. I went to a more remote place to get a different view of the whole scene. It was fortunate for me that I found the Marina. A police car was stationed there and the police officer was nice enough to point me to a better place to position myself for the magnificent sunrise.
At 9:00 AM I was in JR Aobadori station to begin my ascent to Mt. Aoba for my third stop. Sendai jo, also known as Aoba jo. Again, I would love to explore this castle by foot, I think it will be more enjoyable because of its large area. I did not get to record the Otemon and the Honmaru stone walls from the base because the taxi brought me directly to the top, but it was worth it. When I reached the peak, I was just in time for a Shinto wedding and there was a guide, explaining in English, the methods of wall construction. I would have love to enjoy the cityscape after the educational tour, but I went on to shoot what was vital for my visit, Date Masamune. The "One-eyed Dragon", who founded what we now know as Sendai today. Ruthless in battle and an outstanding tactician, his fearsome reputation was displayed at an early age when he plucked out his right eye. He even faced the decision of killing his father together with his captors the nearby Hatakeyama clan. Condemned by his mother, who favored his younger brother, whom he killed to rule the clan. Even among contemporary daimyos, he was viewed with much suspicion. He delayed joining Toyotomi Hideyoshi when the latter invaded the Hojo clan. But even if no one fully trusted the Lord of Sendai, he was still one of the last of great daimyos to be with Tokugawa Ieyasu at his deathbed offering a Zen poem. He was even lenient with the preaching of Christianity in his domains during the time of persecution.
A 15 minute walk from the JR Shiroishi station was all it took me to my fourth stop - Shiroishi jo, also known as Masuoka jo. Gamo Ujisato founded this castle in 1591. Noteworthy would be the complexity of the Otemon gate, its strategic construction, entering a steep, wide area which eventually narrows down upon nearing the main gate. In a sense, it bottlenecks attacking enemies thus giving greater advantage to defenders. The castle was ruled by Katakura Kojuro, a retainer of Date Masamune. Shiroishi jo was also spared of the One Castle, One Province policy of the Tokugawa shogunate. It also served as the headquarters of the Northern Alliance during the Boshin War.
Again, Day 3 has ended. Mission accomplished. And I find myself rushing back to Matsushima for some sunset shots. But the sun evaded me this time. So, I settled for the moon over Matsushima bay.
The phone alarm broke my sleep once again, time to stretch and run. This time I knew where to position myself for a better vantage point. And better yet, the sun was slow to rise that day which bought me some more time to set up things. And there I was praising God that I was able to experience another magnificent sunrise.
I did not hurriedly go back to the hotel this time. Instead, I went to see more of what is around Matsushima by foot although, the best way to view this place is by cruise. Godaido was just a walk away, it is said to be the symbol of the Matsushima.
Indeed, Matsushima is as spellbinding as it was when Matsuo Basho described it in his haiku:
With those views, they leave one really speechless...
It was nearly lunch time, when I reached Yamagata Shi, Yamagata Ken for my fifth stop - Yamagata jo, also known as Kasumiga jo. I was a bit disappointed, that the skies were not so friendly all throughout that day. So, I got to shoot only the masugata styled Higashi Otemon of the Ninomaru and Mogami Yoshiaki's statue. As much as I was advised to visit the ongoing archeological excavation on the other side, my energy level was already running low. So, to the JR Yamagata station I went feeling black and blue.
In amazed disbelief, I shook my head when I saw that the next train would be in 2 hours. Now what would you do if you were stranded for 2 hours?
With faint shades of blue in a grey sky, it was like evening already although it was still mid afternoon for my final stop - Kaminoyama jo, also known as Tsukioka jo. I was fairly rewarded to pass by this castle-museum. Although it said that this area was a seat for domination between the Date Masamune and Mogami Yoshiaki, it showcased the region and mentioned only a few about its samurai history. It was founded by Takenaga Yoshitada and ended with the Toki clan. Interesting to note was the style of the castle donjon. At first glance, it resembles a Renkitsushiki, very prominent in the later parts of the Edo period. Nagoya jo, Matsumoto jo and Kumamoto jo are a few of these examples. But, if you get to go around the Honmaru, it looks like a Seppuku ground. Entering the donjon, the first floor exhibits dioramas that, according to the brochure, give one a feeling of what it was like "taking the old road up Mt. Zao". I personally like the Yamabushi wax figure. These Yamabushi are said to be holy men, mighty warriors with supernatural powers. I only liked the horagai, a conch-shell trumpet that they are famous of. Other features of the museum are the flora collection of the region, pottery fragments dating back 3000 BC and a burial mound scale model. As I walk back to the JR KaminoyamaOnsen station the sky was suddenly filled with shades of purple, pink and red.
Day 4 has ended. Mission accomplished. As I journey back to Shizuoka. I energized inside the Tsubasa.
I began blogging about these castle visits around March 2007 at my Friendster account, which eventually became a mere photo album and then I relocated them to my Flickr account to map them out. Blogging about these castles requires a great amount of time because it requires accurate details of names and dates. Read books. Review the brochures and flyers. Research on the internet. This time, I'm sort of changing the writing format like a travelogue. Although this style is not new, I think I would be enjoying blogging this way than the one in my Friendster account. If I were to continue with the previous format, I would be writing a book instead. Where is the fun in that!
But before the journey, I stopped by Tokyo for a photoshoot at Odaiba with photo buddies and also bloggers Totomai (Distilling Thoughts), Torney (Islander in the City) and Winston (Scion of our Times), who joined us later that evening.
The sun was already way up when I arrived at my first stop - Shirakawa jo, better known as Komine jo, the "Small Peak Castle" of Fukushima Ken. Probably its strategic location as a gateway to the north made it to be one of the three most important castles of the Tohoku region. Its terrain also has the characteristics of an entrapping battleground as it is located in between two mountain ranges. Built by Chikamoto Yuuki in 1340, but during the Sengoku period the castle was ruled by Niwa Nagashige who was married to an adopted daughter of Oda Nobunaga. He took part in the Battle of Sekigahara against Maeda Toshinaga and during the siege of Osaka under Tokugawa Ieyasu's side. The impressive walls and moats of this castle were part of Niwa Nagashige's effort to expand Shirakawa jo, adding to its formidable presence in the area. Then eventually it was the Matsudaira clan who ruled the land during the Edo Period. And during the Boshin War in 1868, Shirakawa jo was destroyed by fire. The present day 3 storied main castle keep reconstruction which was built in 1991, accessible by a 10 minute walk from the JR Shirakawa station.
After shooting for 3 hours, I headed to my second stop - Nihonmatsu jo, also known as Kasumiga jo. Much to my surprise, it was the Chrysanthemum Festival and the place was flocked by countless visitors. I knew for sure that the place was lavished with dolls dressed in chrsysanthemum, for even at the Minowa Gate, people were taking turns to have their pictures taken along those dolls. I didn't have the chance to go up the Honmaru to record the main castle keep. Nevertheless, I was able to take decent shots of what was vital for my visit - The Statue of Nihonmatsu Shonentai. It is said that during the Boshin War, 62 young samurais aged between 12 and 17 fought the Imperial forces. They are forever remembered in a battle scene at Odanguchi and a mother sewing his son's battle clothes. I would love to explore Nihonmatsu jo further some time in the future. For sure, it will be another enjoyable 30 minute walk from the JR Nihonmatsu station.
Day 2 has ended. Mission accomplished. And as I was crossing the borders of Fukushima Ken and Miyagi Ken, I was beheld by a heavenly display as a promise of a brighter day tomorrow.
The weird sound of mobile phone alarm broke a wonderful dream, reminding me that it was time for me to stretch and run. Visiting Matsushima was never included in my original travel plan. But since, it is regarded as one of the sites for the best views in Japan, it would only be densely ludicrous for a camera-toting mortal to pass up an opportunity like this. So, wanting to catch the beautiful sunrise, I ran to the nearest train station for the first train to Matsushima. Every second counts in a situation like thisfor the sun waits for no one as it goes up on the horizon. And when the train stopped, we were scampering like meerkats to go and worship the sun! Thank goodness, I was not alone in this predicament. While others were setting up their tripods. I went to a more remote place to get a different view of the whole scene. It was fortunate for me that I found the Marina. A police car was stationed there and the police officer was nice enough to point me to a better place to position myself for the magnificent sunrise.
At 9:00 AM I was in JR Aobadori station to begin my ascent to Mt. Aoba for my third stop. Sendai jo, also known as Aoba jo. Again, I would love to explore this castle by foot, I think it will be more enjoyable because of its large area. I did not get to record the Otemon and the Honmaru stone walls from the base because the taxi brought me directly to the top, but it was worth it. When I reached the peak, I was just in time for a Shinto wedding and there was a guide, explaining in English, the methods of wall construction. I would have love to enjoy the cityscape after the educational tour, but I went on to shoot what was vital for my visit, Date Masamune. The "One-eyed Dragon", who founded what we now know as Sendai today. Ruthless in battle and an outstanding tactician, his fearsome reputation was displayed at an early age when he plucked out his right eye. He even faced the decision of killing his father together with his captors the nearby Hatakeyama clan. Condemned by his mother, who favored his younger brother, whom he killed to rule the clan. Even among contemporary daimyos, he was viewed with much suspicion. He delayed joining Toyotomi Hideyoshi when the latter invaded the Hojo clan. But even if no one fully trusted the Lord of Sendai, he was still one of the last of great daimyos to be with Tokugawa Ieyasu at his deathbed offering a Zen poem. He was even lenient with the preaching of Christianity in his domains during the time of persecution.
A 15 minute walk from the JR Shiroishi station was all it took me to my fourth stop - Shiroishi jo, also known as Masuoka jo. Gamo Ujisato founded this castle in 1591. Noteworthy would be the complexity of the Otemon gate, its strategic construction, entering a steep, wide area which eventually narrows down upon nearing the main gate. In a sense, it bottlenecks attacking enemies thus giving greater advantage to defenders. The castle was ruled by Katakura Kojuro, a retainer of Date Masamune. Shiroishi jo was also spared of the One Castle, One Province policy of the Tokugawa shogunate. It also served as the headquarters of the Northern Alliance during the Boshin War.
Again, Day 3 has ended. Mission accomplished. And I find myself rushing back to Matsushima for some sunset shots. But the sun evaded me this time. So, I settled for the moon over Matsushima bay.
The phone alarm broke my sleep once again, time to stretch and run. This time I knew where to position myself for a better vantage point. And better yet, the sun was slow to rise that day which bought me some more time to set up things. And there I was praising God that I was able to experience another magnificent sunrise.
Of hundred islands
And a lovely morning chill...
The rising sun smiles.
And a lovely morning chill...
The rising sun smiles.
I did not hurriedly go back to the hotel this time. Instead, I went to see more of what is around Matsushima by foot although, the best way to view this place is by cruise. Godaido was just a walk away, it is said to be the symbol of the Matsushima.
Indeed, Matsushima is as spellbinding as it was when Matsuo Basho described it in his haiku:
Matsushima ah!
A-ah, Matsushima, ah!
Matsushima, ah!
A-ah, Matsushima, ah!
Matsushima, ah!
With those views, they leave one really speechless...
It was nearly lunch time, when I reached Yamagata Shi, Yamagata Ken for my fifth stop - Yamagata jo, also known as Kasumiga jo. I was a bit disappointed, that the skies were not so friendly all throughout that day. So, I got to shoot only the masugata styled Higashi Otemon of the Ninomaru and Mogami Yoshiaki's statue. As much as I was advised to visit the ongoing archeological excavation on the other side, my energy level was already running low. So, to the JR Yamagata station I went feeling black and blue.
In amazed disbelief, I shook my head when I saw that the next train would be in 2 hours. Now what would you do if you were stranded for 2 hours?
With faint shades of blue in a grey sky, it was like evening already although it was still mid afternoon for my final stop - Kaminoyama jo, also known as Tsukioka jo. I was fairly rewarded to pass by this castle-museum. Although it said that this area was a seat for domination between the Date Masamune and Mogami Yoshiaki, it showcased the region and mentioned only a few about its samurai history. It was founded by Takenaga Yoshitada and ended with the Toki clan. Interesting to note was the style of the castle donjon. At first glance, it resembles a Renkitsushiki, very prominent in the later parts of the Edo period. Nagoya jo, Matsumoto jo and Kumamoto jo are a few of these examples. But, if you get to go around the Honmaru, it looks like a Seppuku ground. Entering the donjon, the first floor exhibits dioramas that, according to the brochure, give one a feeling of what it was like "taking the old road up Mt. Zao". I personally like the Yamabushi wax figure. These Yamabushi are said to be holy men, mighty warriors with supernatural powers. I only liked the horagai, a conch-shell trumpet that they are famous of. Other features of the museum are the flora collection of the region, pottery fragments dating back 3000 BC and a burial mound scale model. As I walk back to the JR KaminoyamaOnsen station the sky was suddenly filled with shades of purple, pink and red.
Day 4 has ended. Mission accomplished. As I journey back to Shizuoka. I energized inside the Tsubasa.
great shots! Makes me want to buy a UWA lens too!
ReplyDeletecool narrative at wonderful accompanying photos.
ReplyDeletena meet mo ba sa travel mo si pareng matsuo? haha. regards sana sa kanya.
despite leaving me to have fun by my lonesome (and yes, you too, totomai and scion), these pics somehow bought you my forgiveness. hay, if only i were this good in capturing images..
ReplyDelete